4-Zone Alarm System (490-0475) Installation Faxback Doc. # 16648 Some insurance companies give a discount for homes protected by properly installed security and fire alarm systems. Check with your insurance carrier for requirements. NOTES: You must install at least one smoke detector to meet National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Rule 74 and UL 985 standards. Some insurance companies require that you meet these standards to benefit from discounts. Connect only four-wire UL Listed smoke detectors and UL Listed heat detectors to the console. You must connect the supplied end-of-line module as the last device to provide complete fire zone supervision. This system provides Grade B service. The system does not automatically check for wiring faults in the zones. Test the complete system, including every security sensor, once per week with AC power disconnected to ensure complete protection. See "Testing the System" for complete testing instructions. Special Note for California Users: If you use a fire alarm with the system, California Title 19 specifies that the system must operate from battery power for 24 hours when AC power fails. The number of keypads, powered sensors, and arm/disarm indicators you attach to the system, and the backup batteries you use with the system determines the power failure operation time. To meet Title 19 requirements, do not use more than four powered accessories if you use the standard 2.5 amp-hour batteries. Or, use the optional 7 amp-hour batteries available from Consumer Mail Center through your local Radio Shack store. WARNING: Home security systems require a permit in some areas. Check with your local law enforcement agency before you install your system. PLANNING YOUR SYSTEM UNDERSTANDING HOME SECURITY Home security is more than a console and associated sensors and sirens. Home security also includes measures you should take to protect your home, your property and yourself. A home security system has four purposes: To discourage potential intruders To scare intruders away before they can take your property To alert you or others that someone is breaking into your home To alert you or others that your house is on fire To realize these goals, you should do the following: Post warning stickers on doors and windows to show that your home is protected by a security system Place the security console in a location where intruders cannot easily reach or see it Position an alarm siren where you can clearly hear it from outside your home Install sensors on doors and windows that are likely points of entry for a burglar Install motion detectors that cover rooms that contain valuables Install smoke and fire detectors in critical areas of your home Install outdoor lights that discourage prowlers You can also enhance the system with automatic telephone dialers, security strobes, and other accessories. Radio Shack stores have a full line of UL-recognized security accessories. NOTE: Use only UL-recognized accessories with this system. Most police departments offer home security guidelines that might be helpful. Some agencies have officers that come to your home and advise on security planning. After you make a preliminary plan, contact your local police department to see if they offer such a service. The following chart illustrates preventive measures taken by persons whose homes were burglarized. Notice that most victims locked their doors and windows, yet their homes were still burglarized. Fewer than five percent of burglarized homes were protected by a security system. By purchasing this security system, you have taken one of the most effective measures you can take to keep your home from being burglarized and to protect it from intruders. Source: Patterns of Burglary, 2nd Edition 85.6% 85.6% 28.9% 26.7% 11.1% 3.3% Doors Windows Lights Dog in Radio/ Alarm Locked Locked On Yard TV On System Before you install the security system, we recommend that you make a security plan for your home. Even if you only plan to install a minimal system, take the time to plan a complete system. This will help you in the future, if you ever expand the system for better protection. Before you continue, take a few minutes to draw a simple floorplan of your home. Mark the locations of all the AC outlets and telephone jacks. You will use this floorplan during all system planning steps. UNDERSTANDING ZONES The most effective security system consists of several sensors positioned to provide zone coverage. With this type of system, you can choose to arm all or only part of the system. You can also change the zone coverage depending on whether you are at home or away. The two most common zone arrangements are zone-by-area and zone-by- function. To plan a zone-by-area arrangement, divide your home into zones according to the physical arrangement of your house. For example, you could connect sensors that cover your home's front rooms to Zone 1, back rooms to Zone 2, and the garage to Zone 3. To plan zone-by-function arrangement, divide your home into zones according to the types of coverage in each zone. For example, assign all doors to Zone 1, all windows to Zone 2, and the garage door to Zone 3. The sample security system design presented in this manual combines the zone-by-area and zone-by-function arrangements. CHOOSING A LOCATION FOR THE SECURITY CONSOLE Because no two homes are the same, we can only provide guidelines for choosing a location for the security console. Refer to the sample floorplan. We show several possible locations and give advantages and disadvantages of each location. Be sure the location you choose for the console meets the following guidelines. Is near an AC outlet that is not controlled by a wall switch Cannot be seen from any entrance. All family members can reach (if you do not use a remote arm switch) Is not subjected to temperatures outside the range of 32 degrees F - 122 degrees F. Is central to doors, windows, and rooms you plan to protect If you plan to connect a telephone dialer to the security system, it helps to place the security console near a telephone jack. The following chart gives good and bad points for each location marked on the sample floorplan. LOCATION GOOD BAD 1 Easy to get to when Too accessible to intruder. parking in garage. Too far from front door. 2 Hidden from view. Might have to run power cord Close to the front door. through the wall. 3 Hidden from view. Too far from front door. 4 Close to front door. Too easily accessible. Location 2 is probably the best location in the sample floorplan. It is in a central location and is near an AC outlet. Write down four or five possible locations for the security console. Then, write down each location's good and bad points. CHOOSING A LOCATION FOR A REMOTE ARM/DISARM SWITCH A remote arm/disarm switch lets you arm and disarm the system when away from the console. For best protection, use a remote switch that has taper circuit and that also has status indicators, such as the Safe House +Digital Keypad (Cat. No. 49-535 or 49-535A), Remote Key Switch (Cat. No. 49-523) with Remote Key Plate (Cat. No. 49-524), Digital Key Switch (Cat. No. 49-537), Key Lock Switch (Cat. No. 49-511), or Standard Key Switch with Cover (49-515). CHOOSING LOCATIONS FOR SECURITY SENSORS You use two types of security sensors with this system - perimeter and area. Perimeter sensors include door and window contacts, window foil, glass-breakage detectors, and photorelays. Area sensors include ultra- sonic and infrared motion detectors. The next section discusses in more detail the types of sensors you connect to this system. Place perimeter sensors on doors and windows. If you do not plan to protect every door and window now, decide which entries an intruder might use, and place sensors at those locations. The chart shows you how to prioritize sensor locations. For example, the chart illustrates that most intruders enter homes through doors, so you should take steps to protect these entrances first. Intruders Methods of Entry - Source: Patterns of Burglary, 2nd edition! Front/Back Door 63.3% Window 24.4% Other 2.2% Garage Window 1.1% Unknown 2.2% Garage Door 6.7% Secure entries in two ways: Install deadbolt locks or other devices to make forced entry difficult. Install sensors to trip the alarm when an intruder breaks in. Position area sensors to detect motion in access areas such as halls and in areas where you keep valuables. Refer to the sample floorplan. The number next to each entrance rates the importance of placing a sensor there based on the information in the chart. List all entrances to your home and all areas where you keep valuables. Then, rate each location. This list helps you select the correct type and number of sensors. SELECTING THE TYPES OF SENSORS This section helps you select sensors for each location. Unless otherwise noted, you connect the sensors to the control panel using two-conductor hookup wire. Refer to a Radio Shack catalog and the System Planning Worksheets for the correct hook-up wire. Door Sensors Magnet Switch - When the door is closed, a magnet holds the reed switch either open (for normally open sensors) or closed (for normally closed sensors). When the door opens, the magnet moves away from the switch and the switch triggers the alarm. Contact Switch - Mounts in the door frame. When the door is closed, the switch is pressed. When the door opens, the switch triggers the alarm. Jumper Cord - You use this cord with a window sensor to protect door windows. Window Sensors You can also use the above door sensors on windows. The following sensors protect only windows. Window Foil - You put metal tape along the window's edge and use window foil connectors. If the window breaks, the foil breaks and triggers the alarm. Glass-Breakage Detector - Sticks to the window. When the glass breaks, the detector triggers the alarm. Vibration Detector - Sticks on glass. When someone tries to open or break the window, it triggers the alarm. Area Sensors Infrared Motion Sensor - Detects body heat to trigger the alarm. Some also detect tampering and trigger the panic alarm even if the system is not armed. This sensor needs power from the control panel. Use six-conductor hookup wire to connect to the control panel if the sensor has tamper detection; otherwise, use four-conductor wire. Infrared Photorelay Sensor - Light from this sensor bounces off a reflector and returns to the sensor. If someone blocks the light, the sensor triggers the alarm. This sensor needs power from the control panel. Use four-conductor hookup wire to connect to the control panel. Ultrasonic Motion Detector - Sends high-frequency sounds and listens to the returned sound. If someone in the area moves, the sound changes, and the detector triggers the alarm. If the detector needs system power, use four-conductor hookup wire. Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC) Sensors Most sensors you connect to the system are available as normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC) types. Normally open sensors block electricity when not violated. When violated, the sensor completes the electrical path. The control panel senses this and sounds the alarm. Normally closed (NC) sensors provide an electrical path when not violated. When violated, they block electricity. The control panel senses this and sounds the alarm. Since cutting a normally closed zone's wiring causes the zone to be violated, this type zone is considered to be more secure than normally open zones. NOTE: You can connect either type to Zones 1, 2, and 3. You can connect only NC sensors to Zone 4. ASSIGNING THE SENSORS TO ZONES The security system can have up to four independent protection zones. Each zone has specific capabilities that you need to know about. Zones 1 and 2 let you provide an entry and exit delay. If you place the arm/disarm switch inside your house, assign doors to one of these two zones. You might also need to assign motion detectors to delay zones, if you have to walk through a protected area to get to the disarm switch. NOTE: The entry delay is cancelled if the burglar alarm sounds during an arm cycle. Zones 3 and 4 activate the alarm immediately when they are violated. Connect window sensors and other sensors you would not normally violate when entering or leaving your home to one of these zones. You can connect either NO or NC sensors to Zones 1, 2, and 3. You can connect only NC sensors to Zone 4. The system also has a panic zone that is always armed. Connect NO switches to this zone. This zone activates the alarm any time the zone is violated, even if the system is not armed. You can program the system to operate differently depending upon whether you are at home or away. If you assign the motion sensors to a different zone than the doors, you might want to arm the system for the home mode, and not set off the alarm as you move through your home. See "Setting the Home-Zone Mode." The following sample floorplan shows you how to assign sensors to zones. GENERAL FIRE PROTECTION AND EVACUATION INFORMATION Properly installed and maintained smoke and fire detectors are essential to a good home security program. The security program should include a review of fire hazards and the elimination of dangerous conditions whenever possible. When fire strikes, a prepared and practiced escape plan can mean the difference between life and death. Your fire department might be willing to help you in this regard. Call them and ask. Consider and discuss the following safety guidelines: Be sure that all occupants are familiar with the alarm signal. Doors can mean escape or death. Test them with your hands before flinging them open. If they feel warm, fire can be walled up just behind them. Leave the door closed and find another escape route. Do not waste time collecting possessions after a fire starts. Arouse all occupants and leave the building. Your life is your most valuable possession. If you are trapped inside, stay close to the floor, cover your mouth with cloth, and conserve your breath as you crawl to safety. Pull an alarm box handle if you pass one on the way out of a building. Call the fire department from outside the building. After your escape, move to and stay in a prearranged meeting place. Never re-enter a burning building. Draw a floor plan and plan your escape route. Have fire drills often. Practice your escape. LOCATING FIRE AND SMOKE DETECTORS As a minimum, put smoke detectors between sleeping areas and potential fire sources such as kitchens, garages, or basements. In single-story residences with one sleeping area, install a smoke detector in the hall outside the bedrooms. Where sleeping areas are separate, have at least one smoke detector outside each sleeping area. In a multi- or split-level residence, as a minimum, install a smoke detector outside each sleeping area, in the basement, and on each level of the residence. Install additional smoke detectors inside bedrooms in anticipation of a fire starting within these rooms. For overall best protection, install smoke detectors in every room of your house. Install smoke detectors in hallways no more than 13 feet from the furthest wall and no more than 26 feet from the next smoke detector. Try to place the smoke detector in the center of the area, as it is impossible to predict a fire's source. If you must place the detector on a wall, position the detector no closer than 6 inches from the ceiling. If you have rooms with simple sloped, peaked, or gabled ceilings, install smoke detectors on the ceiling so that they are 3 feet from the ceiling's highest point. Dead air space at the ceiling's peak can prevent smoke from reaching the detector in time to provide early warning. If you have complex ceiling configurations, consult a fire safety expert for the correct number and placement of detectors. Closed doors and other obstructions interfere with smoke movement to a smoke detector and can prevent early detection. These barriers can also impede noise travel enough to prevent you from hearing an alarm signal. Install enough alarm signaling devices to ensure that everyone in the house hears the alarm signal. Your local fire department often has additional safety information. Check with them for availability. CAUTION: Early warning fire detection is best achieved by the installation of fire detection equipment in all rooms and areas of the house as follows: A smoke detector installed in each separate sleeping area (the vicinity of but outside of the bedrooms), and heat or smoke detectors in living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, kitchens, hallways, attics, furnace rooms, closets, utility and storage rooms, basements, and attached garages. Place heat detectors in attic spaces or other areas where a fire's heat can build up. In some cases, extreme heat can trigger a fire detector before enough smoke accumulates to trigger a smoke detector. Follow these don't's when positioning the smoke detectors: Do not put smoke detectors in turbulent air from fans, doors, windows, and so on. Rapid air movement can prevent combustion particles from entering the smoke detector. Do not put smoke detectors in high-humidity areas, such as bathrooms and attics, or where temperatures exceed 100 degrees F or fall below 40 degrees F. Extreme conditions can make the detector trigger a false alarm. Do not put smoke detectors at a sloped, peaked, or gabled ceiling's peak. Still air in this area can keep smoke from reaching the smoke detector in time to provide early warning. Do not put smoke detectors in insect-infested areas. Insects can interfere with the detector and trigger a false alarm. Do not put smoke detectors in poorly ventilated kitchens or garages. Smoke from cooking or car exhaust can trigger false alarms. NFPA Recommendations The National Fire Protection Association's Standard 74, Chapter 2, reads as follows: 2-1.1 This standard requires the following detectors within the family unit. 2-1.1.1 Smoke detectors shall be installed outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms and on each additional story of the family living unit, including the basement and excluding crawl spaces and unfinished attics. (See Note 1.) Note 1 - The provisions of 2-1.1.1 represent the minimum number of detectors required by this standard. It is recommended that the householders consider the use of additional smoke or heat detectors for increased protection of areas separated by a door from the areas protected by the required smoke detectors under 2-1.1.1 above. The recommended additional areas are: living room, dining room, bedroom(s), kitchen, attic (finished or unfinished), furnace room, utility room, basement, integral or attached garage, and hallways not covered by 2-1.1.1 above. However, the use of additional detectors remains the option of the householder. 2-1.1.2 For family living units with one or more split levels (i.e., adjacent levels with less than one full story separation between levels), a smoke detector required by 2-1.1.1 shall suffice for an adjacent lower level, including basements. Exception: Where there is an intervening door between one level, a smoke detector shall be installed on the lower level. 2-2 Alarm Sounding Devices. Each detection device shall cause the operation of an alarm which shall be clearly audible in all bedrooms over background noise levels with all intervening doors closed. The tests of audibility shall be conducted with all household equipment which may be in operation at right in full operation. Examples of such equipment are window air conditioners and room humidifiers. CHOOSING LOCATIONS FOR SOUNDING DEVICES AND STROBES The security system has outputs for three different types of sounding devices. Pre-Alarm Sounder - sounds during the entry delay. You typically use a piezo buzzer or a ding-dong chime for this sounder. Place this sounder where you can hear it during the entry delay. Do not place the sounder at the alarm console, as the sound would let an intruder quickly find the console and possibly disable the system. Burglar Alarm Sounder - sounds when the system is armed and a security sensor is violated. Position this sounder where you can clearly hear it outside your home, to attract attention. If you place the sounder in an area that is not protected by the system, such as on an outside eave, put the sounder in a siren enclosure (Cat. No. 49-486). Fire Alarm Sounder - sounds when a smoke or fire detector is activated. Position this sounder where you can clearly hear it from all locations inside your home, to alert you to a possible fire. Before you permanently mount this sounder, test it from all areas in your home. When you perform the test, close all doors, and be sure the sounder is loud enough to wake you from any area. Radio Shack stores sell two-sound sirens that have separate circuits for fire and burglar alarms. Connect the fire alarm to the steady-tone contacts, and the burglar alarm to the high-low siren contacts. Strobe Lights - flash to alert emergency vehicles to your home when the alarm sounds. You can connect the strobe light to the burglar or fire alarm outputs. Select a location outside your home where it will be highly visible in the event of an emergency. CHOOSING A LOCATION FOR A SECURITY DIALER For a higher level of security, you can add a security dialer to your system. Security dialers connect to your telephone line and automatically call preset phone numbers if something causes the burglar or fire alarm to sound. Select a location for the security dialer that is near a telephone jack and AC outlet, and that is not easily accessible by an intruder. NOTE: Do not set a security dialer to dial an emergency service number that is not specifically assigned for automated security system service. MAKING A SHOPPING LIST Now that you have completed your floorplan, you need to make a shopping list for the system. Use the supplied security system worksheets as a guide for making your list. When selecting the length of wire to purchase, refer to your completed floorplan. INSTALLING THE SECURITY SYSTEM Mount all of the sensors at the locations you determined during system planning, following the instructions provided with each sensor. Then, use the information in this section to mount the console and connect all of the sensors to the console. MOUNTING THE SYSTEM CONSOLE Follow these steps to mount the console at the location you selected during system planning. 1. Place the supplied template on the wall at the location. Then, use a pencil to mark the wall at the locations for the four keyholes. 2. Use screws and hardware appropriate for the mounting surface, and drive screws into the wall at the marked locations. Let the screws' heads extend about 1/4 inch from the wall's surface. 3. Hang the console on the screws. 4. Tighten the screws. NOTE Take care not to overtighten and strip the screws out of the mounting surface. GENERAL WIRING GUIDELINES Connect the wires to the sensors. Then, route wires to the console and through one of the knockout plugs in the cabinet. Strip about 1/4-inch of insulation from the end of each wire. Secure the wires to the correct terminals by loosening the terminal's screw, placing the bare wire under the screw's clamp, and tightening the screw. NOTE: You can connect only two wires to each terminal. If you have more wires to connect to a terminal, connect the wires to an external barrier strip (Cat. No. 274-658/659/670). Then, connect a single wire from the barrier strip to the console. CONNECTING NORMALLY OPEN SENSORS Refer to the following diagram and the sensor's instructions to see how to connect normally open sensors to the console. Connect one of the sensor's NO contact terminals to one alarm circuit wire and the other contact terminal to the other alarm circuit wire. Then, connect the alarm circuit wires to a zone's NO and GND terminals. NOTE: You must leave the jumpers connected between the NC and GND ter- minals when you use only NO sensors. CONNECTING NORMALLY CLOSED SENSORS Refer to the following diagram and the sensor's instructions to connect normally closed sensors to the console. When you use normally closed sensors on a zone, remove the metal jumper from between the zone's NC and GND terminals. Then, connect the sensor's wiring to the NC and GND terminals. At each sensor, cut one of the alarm circuit wires. Connect one of the cut ends to one of the sensor's NC terminals, and the other cut end to the sensor's other terminal, following the sensor's instructions. When you have connected all sensors to the alarm circuit wires, connect the ends of the wires together to form a closed loop. CONNECTING POWER TO POWERED SENSORS Some sensors, such as infrared motion detectors, require external power from the console or another power source. To use the console's accessory power, connect the sensor's + power lead to Terminal 22. Connect the sensor's - power lead to Terminal 21. NOTE: Terminals 22 and 21 provide 10-13V DC at up to 200 mA total current. Add the current requirements for all powered sensors. If the total is more than 200 mA, use fewer powered sensors or supply power from another source. For complete protection, and to prevent false alarms, the other power source must have a battery backup. GROUNDING THE CONSOLE Use 14-gauge or larger wire to connect the console to an earth ground. Secure one end of the wire to the green hex-head bolt in the console's upper right corner. Then, connect the wire's other end to a metal cold- water pipe or other good earth ground. Be sure to follow all local wiring codes in your installation. NOTE: Improper grounding can cause false alarms. CONNECTING SMOKE AND FIRE DETECTORS Smoke detectors have four wires. Two wires supply power to operate the smoke detector and sound the detector's internal sounder. The other wires trigger the alarm when the detector senses smoke or other combustion particles. Heat detectors have two wires. They do not need power from the system console. Follow these steps to connect smoke and fire detectors. 1. Connect the smoke detector's + power lead (usually red) to Terminal 30. 2. Connect the smoke detector's - power lead (usually black) to Terminal 31. 3. Remove the resistor from between Terminals 32 and 33. 4. Connect the smoke or fire detector's switched terminal leads (usually blue and yellow) to Terminals 32 and 33. 5. Install the end-of-line module as the last device in the fire zone. CONNECTING A PRE-ALARM BUZZER Connect the pre-alarm's + power lead (usually red) to Terminal 34. Connect the pre-alarm's - power lead (usually black) to Terminal 35. The pre-alarm must not draw more than 50 mA and must operate at 8-13 volts DC. CONNECTING SECURITY DIALERS Use two-conductor wire to connect the security dialer's normally open (NO) contacts to Terminals 28 and 29 for a burgler-alarm dialer or to Terminals 26 and 27 for a fire-alarm dialer. CONNECTING THE ALARM SOUNDERS AND OPTIONAL STROBE LIGHT Follow these steps to connect the fire and burglar alarm sounders and optional strobe light. 1. Connect the fire and burglar sounder's ground wire (usually black) to Terminal 24. If you use a two-sound siren, this is one wire. If you use separate sounding devices, connect both devices' ground wires to Terminal 24. If you also connect a strobe, connect its ground wire to Terminal 24. 2. Connect the burglar sounder's + wire (usually red) to Terminal 25. If you also connect a strobe, connect its + wire to Terminal 25, too. NOTE: Be sure the total current required by all burglar sounders and strobes you connect to Terminal 25 does not exceed 2 amps. 3. Connect the fire sounder's + wire (usually red for a single siren, green for a two-sound siren) to Terminal 23. NOTE: Be sure the total current required by all fire sounders you connect to Terminal 23 does not exceed 2 amps. CONNECTING AN ARM/DISARM SWITCH AND STATUS INDICATOR To arm and disarm the system, you must install a momentary-contact switch between Terminals 13 and 16. You should also install an indicator panel at this switch so you can check the system status (armed or disarmed, zone violated or system ready) before you operate the switch. Follow these steps to connect one or more Digital Keypads (Cat. No. 49-535, 49-535A, or 490-537) to the system. Use six-conductor wire to connect keypads to the console. 1. Route the wire from the keypad to the console. 2. Set the keypad's LATCH switch to OUT. 3. Connect a jumper wire between the keypad's ARM (+) terminal and the keypad's center NO terminal 4. Connect a jumper wire between the keypad's POWER (-) terminal and the keypad's right TAMPER PANIC (NO) terminal. 5. Connect the six-conductor wire to the keypad and console as shown in the illustration and the following chart. From Keypad Terminal: To Console Terminal: Right No 13 Left TAMPER PANIC (NO) 12 ARM LED (-) 14 STATUS LED (-) 15 POWER (-) 21 POWER (+) 16 6. Mount the keypad following its instructions. Follow these steps to connect one or more Momentary-Contact Lock Switches (Cat. No. 49-523) with Remote Key Plates (Cat. No. 49-524) to the console. 1. Install the switch in the plate. 2. Connect the wires as shown in the table and the illustration. 3. Connect a jumper between the switch terminals labeled 2, 4, and 8. 4. Mount the switch as described in its instructions. Follow these steps to install an arm/disarm switch, such as the Locking Switch with Cover (Cat. No. 49-515) directly on the console. 1. Pry off the front panel knock-out plug. 2. Place the switch in the knock-out. 3. Secure the switch with its supplied nut. Use two-conductor wire to connect the switch's terminals to Terminals 13 and 16. (br/ir-04/01/96)